Follow These Basic Instructions to Proper Dog Grooming

Dog grooming services can be expensive, and you find yourself paying for extra baubles like handkerchiefs. If your dog needs a nice clean and trim, but you want to avoid forking over the dough, these dog grooming instructions are exactly what you need to get the job done.

Gather Your Supplies

It is important to have everything you need in one place before you get started, especially if you are grooming your dog alone. If you have never groomed, it is a great idea to have a partner who can help you keep your dog still and hand you supplies, so grab your spouse or child if you can. Aside from a partner, the supplies you need depend on what sort of grooming you wish to do and what kind of dog you have. Some examples of necessary supplies are: shampoo, trimming shears or scissors, a brush, and nail clippers.

Set Up Your Space

Unless you have a tub for dog grooming in your backyard, it is a good idea to set up your grooming space close to the bathroom, so you have access to the bathtub. If you have a smaller dog, find a table you can move it to once your dog is clean. If you have a larger dog, you can do most of the grooming on the floor. Either way, make sure this space is as close as possible to the tub where you plan to bathe your dog, to keep from dripping all over your home. Once you've chosen a space, make sure it's clean and clear of any hazards to you or your dog. Keep clippers and shears within arms reach, but safely distanced from where you plan to have your dog.

Get Your Dog

Depending on how well-trained your dog is, it may already be hiding from you, because it knows a bath is coming. Have treats on hand and get your dog over to the grooming space.

Thoroughly Brush Your Dog

It will be easier to do everything else if you start with a well-brushed dog. Start at your dog's neck and work your way down its body, getting out any tangles. This will make it much easier to brush and trim the hair once it's wet.

Clip and Cut

If it has been a long time since you've cut your dog's hair, it's a good idea to get the bulk of it out of the way before you start shampooing. You can work on making it neat after the bath. This is also a good time to clip toenails and clean your dog's ears, eyes, and teeth. That way, any residue will wash off in the bath.

Make Sure Your Dog is Secured in the Tub

Each dog has its own needs for this step. Some dogs will sit patiently in the tub or even enjoy the process, while others might try to run away. If you're not sure what your dog will do, it is a good idea to have it on a lead. The more you bathe your dog, the more it will become accustomed to the process. You will also learn more strategies to keep your dog from ending up scared and you from getting all wet.

Wash Your Dog

Start by wetting the dog thoroughly. Go slowly at first in order to keep the water from scaring your dog. Let it get used to it over time. Once your dog is wet, you can start shampooing it, using the same pattern we did for brushing its hair: start at the neck and work down and back. If it has been some time since you have washed your dog, it could be worthwhile to lather and rinse more than once. Do this until any dirt or residue is gone.

Rinse Your Dog

Use the same care you used in originally wetting your dog, to rinse it off. By now, your dog should be more relaxed, but smaller dogs will often stay spooked until the bath is over, so keep a tight grip. Make sure you get all of the shampoo out.

Brush the Wet Hair

Now it is time to brush out your dog's hair once again. It should be easier than it was the first time, but use care so that it's easier to manage when it comes time to trim it.

Trim Carefully

If you got the bulk of your dog's extra hair out of the way earlier, all that's left now is the detailed trimming. It is a good idea to use a "noose lead" or other grooming tool to keep your dog still, that way you don't risk injuring it with your scissors. Once your dog is secured, trim its hair as desired.

Dry and Style

Depending on your dog, you can either pat it down with a towel and let it air-dry, or you may want to blow dry. Always blow dry on the "cool" setting, for the safety of your dog. Now is also a great time to add handkerchiefs, bows, or any other personal styles you like to give your dog.

Reward Your Dog

Being groomed can be stressful. Reward your dog for its good behavior with a treat or some attention.

With some practice, you will come to master these dog grooming instructions and figure out a great routine for you and your dog. There's no need to waste money paying a groomer when you can learn the skills and use them as another opportunity to bond with your dog.

Smelly Spot: Removing Skunk Odor From Your Dog

If your dog has ever been sprayed by a skunk, then you know that it can be a nightmare to get rid of that skunk odor. However, it can be done, and you don't need any fancy commercial deskunking products.

Does using tomato juice or mouthwash remove the skunk odor from your dog?

You may have heard that bathing your dog with tomato juice or mouthwash eliminates the skunk odor. While these products may help, they only mask the odor; they do not eliminate it.

What is an effective method to get the skunk odor out of your dog's fur?

Mix together 1 quart hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda and 1 to 2 teaspoons of liquid soap. If you have a larger dog, you can also add some lukewarm water. Using a sponge or rag, apply this solution to your dog's fur, but avoid getting it in his eyes, ears or mouth. After five minutes, rinse it off with lukewarm water. Repeat this procedure several times until the odor is gone.

Can you make this solution ahead of time and store it?

This mixture fizzes due to a chemical reaction and must be used up right away or discarded. If it is stored in a closed container, there is a risk of explosion.

Does it make a difference if the deskunking process is delayed?

It is best to perform this procedure right away. Once the skunk's spray dries, it is more difficult to get rid of the skunk odor.

Are there any precautions to take?

Prior to beginning this procedure, apply a bit of eye lubricant or a couple of drops of mineral oil to the eyes. This protects them in case the solution splashes into the eyes. Do not allow your dog to swallow the solution, and avoid getting it in his ears.

Getting rid of the skunk odor takes some doing. As soon as your malodorous pup appears, put on your old clothes, and get to work. Your efforts are sure to be rewarded when your sweet-smelling dog emerges from the treatment.

How to Trim Your Dog's Nails

Trimming your dog's nails on a regular basis is an important part of the care and grooming process. Unfortunately, it also tends to be the most unpleasant. Most veterinarians will advise you to trim your dog's nails every 3 to 4 weeks; this may vary depending on the breed of your dog. Trimming your dog's nails at home can be a huge money saver and over time could become a bonding experience for you and your dog. Here are a few simple steps that will help you to be better prepared the next time you hear your pooch's nails tapping on the floor.

Prepare for Trimming Your Dog's Nails

Making sure you have all of the supplies needed in order to trim your dog's nails is the most essential step in the trimming process. You'll want to have all of the materials within an arms reach so you don't have to walk away from your dog in the middle of trimming. Important items to have on hand are:
*a) Dog Nail Trimmers
There are two types of nail trimmers that are most common and you should be able to pick these up at any pet supply store. The guillotine trimmer is great for small to medium dogs since they do not normally tend to have incredibly thick nails. It's sturdy and easy to grip, making it perfect if you have a dog that tends to struggle while you're trimming. The other type of trimmer is a scissor style, and this one can be a little bit more difficult to handle. It's best to use this type of trimmer if your dog has straight nails and is normally okay with getting their nails clipped. Its best to examine your dog's nail type and their level of comfort with getting a nail trim before making the purchase for either type of trimmer.
*b) Styptic Powder
Styptic powder is an antihemorrhagic powder you can use to stop any bleeding caused by clipping your dog's nails too close to the quick. If you can't find styptic powder at your local pet supply store, you can substitute using corn starch.
*c) Treats
It's great to keep treats handy to reward your dog for good behavior after you complete trimming each nail. This is positive reinforcement and will set up you for an easier trim the next time around.

Determine the Place

Since you're trimming your dog's nails at home, you'll want to find a comfortable spot where you both have plenty of room. If you have a small dog, it may be easier for you place him on a table or countertop, if not, the floor should work out just as well.

Prepare Your Dog

Once you have a safe spot picked out, make your dog comfortable by laying him on his side, this will also make access to all four paws much easier.

Begin Trimming the Nails

To begin clipping the nails, push back the skin around the nail so the full nail is exposed. If your dog has clear nails, you'll be able to see the quick and determine where to stop, however, if your dog has black nails you'll want to trim in small snips until you see a small dark circle. Once you see that circle, you know you're finished with that nail and can move on. If, by chance, you clip too close and cause bleeding, stop trimming immediately and dip the nail in styptic powder or cornstarch.

Reward Good Behavior

Since having their nails trimmed can be a stressful experience, you'll want to make sure you reward good behavior by giving your dog a treat with each finished nail. This will help to ease anxiety and make the experience much more enjoyable.

By using the steps outlined for trimming your dog's nails, you're making sure the process is safe and stress-free for both you and your dog. Don't feel bad if it doesn't go perfectly the first time, this will take practice and patience, but once you get started you'll wonder why you were ever worried to begin with. Your pooch's perfect pedicure is only a few snips away.

At what age should you take a puppy from its mother?

The sight of a worried mother searching frantically for her missing pup is not one that is likely forgotten so for a first timer, choosing the right time and also the right way in which to take a puppy from its mother can become quite the quandary. Though ensuring a completely stress free process is impossible, with a little thought and planning, it can be simplified- making a smoother transition for everyone involved.

In order to fully understand at what age this can happen it is necessary to first delve a little into the development of the dog's sensory perception and motor skills. Outlined below are what behaviourists consider to be the most vital stages of development for the newborn domestic dog and what each entails.

From birth to two weeks - The Neonatal Period

Puppies are born with immature brains. Their eyes and ears are closed, they cannot walk and the only movement they seem to make is to bobble their heads continuously and 'swim' along the floor. During the neonatal period, the mother will continuously lick the puppies, familiarising them with her smell and also stimulating them to urinate and defecate- as even this, a newborn puppy cannot do on his own.

In 1937, Konrad Lorenz developed his theory of imprinting, where he found that the image of the mother was 'imprinted' in the mind of young goslings. Similar maternal imprinting occurs with dogs and further studies at the Swedish Dog Training Center at Solleftea have indicated that some behaviours, like whining for example, are not genetically predetermined, but rather a result of maternal imprinting. Even the 'head bobble' of a newborn pup boasts an intricate pattern that is in fact designed to aid the process of imprinting. It can be supposed thus, that the impact of what young dogs go through during this time is indeed tremendous. Any thought of separation during the neonatal period is one that should be swiftly dismissed as even in the case of hand raised puppies whose mother's are unable to nurse due to death or physical injury, extreme behavioural problems have been observed as the animals mature.

From two to four weeks- The Transitional Period

During the transitional period, a puppy's sensory abilities begin to expand rapidly. The eyes and ears open, teeth appear and suddenly his world becomes more than just his mother warmth. His litter mates and environment suddenly become interesting. Puppies will wag their tails, move to and from the nest and growl and bark for the first time. The mother's influence is still significant at this point, though she will begin contemplating weaning them. She may try to walk away when they nurse or start regurgitating food to accelerate the weaning process. As unsavoury as we may find it, eating vomit is quite normal in a dog's world, though many years of selective breeding and human intervention in the weaning process has tried to eradicate this behaviour.

But the most important thing that happens to puppies during the transitional period it they begin to notice us, their human counterparts. How we interact with them now will determine how they see people for the rest of their lives and growing up in a sensory rich environment with lots of human handling has been shown to not only ensure a dog that is unafraid of people but also to physically increase brain size, leading to smarter animals at maturity.

From four to eight weeks - The Socialisation Period

The developmental changes that puppies experience during the socialisation period are so significant that this is often referred to as a 'critical period' by canine behaviourists. As the name suggests, this is when puppies begin to interact with other dogs and play with their litter mates . But just like any toddler must be taught manners from a very early age, mother dogs impress upon their young basic social norms. The most important skill that puppies learn at this stage is to play. Dogs are a neotenized species, meaning that they have been selectively bred to retain many of their juvenile characteristics. Thus, dogs will play for most of their lives and it is during this critical period that dogs truly learn to play with each other.

Play has various different functions in a dog's mind. It serves to engage and stimulate, teaches dexterity, exploration and problem solving- and it is during play that hierarchies are established. More importantly it is through play that dogs truly learn to communicate and a dog deprived of play during the socialisation period will likely turn out to have problems getting along with other dogs for the rest of its life.

Making the decision that's right for you

When dealing with animals, there is seldom a cut and dry approach as most often every case is different. Therefore it is necessary to evaluate the temperament of the mother as well as the temperament of the puppies themselves before deciding the right age. it is however, widely acknowledged that before 8 weeks is a big NO.

In countries that are fortunate enough to have little to no street dog populations and well developed canine education and industry, the notion of giving away or selling a puppy prior to eight weeks of age will seem absurd. But sadly, many countries especially those that have rampant street dog populations leading to dogs being regarded as 'pest' or 'food' as opposed to 'Fido' and where no legislation concerning the welfare of the domestic dog is in place, puppies are often given away or sold at as little as four or five weeks of age. This is far too young and puppies should never be bought from breeders at this age, no matter how cute they seem.

The debate however, lies mainly between the ages of eight to twelve weeks, as some believe that eight weeks is even still too early and others that twelve weeks is too late. A good indicator of when the mother is ready is when she begins to walk away from the puppies when they try to nurse or regurgitate food for them to eat. This means that she is starting the weaning process in terms of food. Nursing takes a tremendous amount out of her and it is in her best interest to do it as quickly as possible. Litter size will also play a part here, as dogs with large litters will likely want to wean sooner than those with only one or two pups. Though the exact emotional state of a dog can never truly be known, subtle signs will shed some light, e.g.: if the mother still sleeps with her head on the puppies she still wants their presence felt.

The temperaments of the puppies will also give a clue as to whether they are ready to leave their mother and face the challenges of a new home. Some puppies will nurse for longer than others, usually the weakest ones of the litter and may display signs of taking a longer time to become socialised. These puppies should be kept for at least twelve weeks. But puppies who are confident and take to solid foods easily can be rehomed at nine weeks, provided they have been separated from the mother for short to longer periods beforehand.

Another thing to consider are the vaccinations, as the ones for viruses such as Canine Parvo Virus are only effective for every member of the litter after the final booster is given at twelve weeks of age. Until then, there remains the smallest of chances that your puppy could contract Parvo so it is best to consult with your vet before making a decision.

The truth is there is no right or wrong way to separate a puppy from its mother and there is no age at which the mother will get less stressed or the puppy will feel less scared in a new home. Like for humans, change is hard for dogs too. But unlike us, our canine companions are marvellously adaptable, with a natural curiosity and a knack for living in the moment. So both mother and puppy should be able to bounce back from a carefully planned and well thought out separation, without too many problems.

Do I Actually Need to Hire a Dog Trainer?

I spoke with a deaf dog owner on the phone recently. They told me that they hired a dog trainer for $95 an hour, only to find out that (a) the trainer didn't seem to even like dogs, and (2) the trainer had no clue the dog was deaf.

$95 an hour? Ouch! (Hm...maybe I should consider changing careers!)

Our conversation inspired me to write down a few thoughts about dog training.

There are no standardized training programs for dog trainers yet.

Standardization is in process, but right now, a "dog trainer" can claim to be "certified" by taking an online course and receiving a certificate - without even coming near to or touching a dog. So if you decide to hire a "certified" trainer, do your research and make sure that their certification includes hands-on training of some kind.

If a trainer claims that they can take your dog away from you and turn them into a perfect angel

Run, run away fast! Sure, your dog may learn to respond to commands and behave themselves perfectly in the company of the trainer, but even if the trainer runs down the commands with you after the training session, are you going to remember to practice the commands when you return to your daily life? And is there any guarantee that your dog is going to behave with you like they did with the trainer?

Unless you are present, learning alongside your dog, dog training is basically useless.

Nobody really LEARNS anything unless we DO it. There are probably exceptions to this rule of thumb, but the bottom line is that if YOU are the one who does the research and takes the learning curve, you are going to be more invested in the training process, and as a result, you will be more likely to remember and practice any training techniques that you learn. This includes the day-to-day good house manners that make a dog a delight to have around, but aren't necessarily part of standard training programs.

There is nothing wrong with hiring a dog trainer to teach YOU how to train your dog.

A good trainer can give you feedback on things like body language, cues, or timing that you might not be aware of. A trainer can also be helpful if your dog is exhibiting bizarre or troublesome behaviors that you can't figure out how to correct by yourself.

The bottom line

You're best off doing the research and figuring out how to train your dog yourself. You're the one living with your dog, you know your dog and your lifestyle better than anyone else, and you're going to get more out of the process of researching and trying stuff out yourself than learning by rote or sending your dog away to doggy boot camp. If you aren't getting the results you want, or there is a problem that has you stumped, by all means hire a trainer who will observe you and give you feedback, or who can help you come up with solutions for your issue.

7 Ways to Help Your Dog Stay Safe in the Car

We all buckle up our human passengers whenever we get in the car--even for a short trip--but how do you keep your dog safe in the car? As more dogs join their people on both short and long excursions, it's more important than ever to keep Fido safe in the car and, at the same time, help protect your human passengers!

Does your dog like to run errands with you? Or accompany you on day trips, family visits, and vacations?

Today more and more dog lovers are enjoying traveling with their four-legged family members. While most of those travelers routinely buckle up before ever turning on the ignition, the large majority of those travelers aren't ensuring the safety of their dogs in their vehicles. A safe dog travel study by Kurgo and AAA showed that, while nearly six in 10 people have traveled with their dog in the car at least once a month over the past year, only 16 percent were restraining their dog while in the vehicle.

Before your next trip with your dog, whether that's to the bank drive-through window or a cross-country dream vacation, be sure to check out these tips to make sure your journey is a safe one for your car's two- and four-legged occupants:

1. Don't let your dog ride in the front seat.

Just as children no longer ride in the front seat in their mothers' laps, dogs should never be in the front seat. Along with distracting you, a dog in a lap or in the passenger seat is at risk for injury from an air bag.

2. Buckle Up!

You, your passengers, and your dog are safest when your dog is buckled, whether that's restrained in a dog crate or a booster seat for small dogs or wearing a seat belt. This protects your dog and also ensures that your human passengers won't be struck by a dog in the event of an accident and that a dog won't escape a car into traffic if emergency personnel should have to open the car in the event of an accident.

3. Keep the windows up.

We all have seen joyous photos of dogs with their heads hanging out of the car window as they merrily travel down the highway. But what you don't see in those photos are the dangers: the risk of your dog falling from the car with an unexpected turn, jumping from the car if he suddenly spies another dog (or squirrel!), being decapitated by objects too close to the car, or having an eye put out by flying debris. Crack the window slightly to permit outside air (and interesting odors!) into the car but keep your dog's head in the car where it belongs.

4. Never allow a dog in the back of a pickup.

Allowing your dog to ride in the back of a pickup truck is illegal in some states but it doesn't take legislation to know that this is a recipe for disaster. Please bring your dog into the cab with the rest of the family.

5. Train your dog to an arrival routine.

When you arrive at your destination, be sure your dog exits the car when you are ready for your dog to leave the car, not when the door is suddenly opened. Train your dog to remain in the car until he's safely leashed. When your dog is wearing a harness and buckled in, this is easy to do; when you give your dog a release word like "OK" after safely leashing your dog and checking for traffic, he can then step out of the car.

6. Always have an ID tag on your dog.

Dogs can always slip away on arrival so be sure to have a clearly legible ID tag on your dog with your name (which is more important than your dog's name) and your phone number.

7. Never leave your dog alone in the car.

Research your trip in advance so your dog can accompany you on your stops. Cars can heat up to deadly levels in a matter of minutes and, even during temperate fall weather, your dog is at risk of being stolen if left alone.

Be sure your next getaway with your dog is a safe one by following a few safety precautions and doing a little pre-trip planning!

How to Train Your Dog in Advanced Methods

It's time to teach your dog to be all that it can be. If your dog has learned basic commands and appears ready to tackle a few harder ones, it may be time to move on to advanced training methods and teach them fun, exciting tricks. You can teach your dog many of these methods at home or you can take advanced training classes. Learn the tips and tricks to teach your special friend. Even an old dog can learn new tricks.

DO: Take advanced training classes

If you feel that your dog has managed to master the fine art of regular training, do take the time to take the dog to advanced training. Advanced training classes can help a dog hold positions for longer periods and be more consistent. These classes can teach the dog tricks as well as obedience. Advanced training classes are available in most large cities, and you can find out more about these types of classes through your veterinarian.

DO: Fade away the treats

It is necessary to fade away the treat giving when you are training your dog. You do not want to have the dog expecting a treat each time they follow a command. This may lead to a behavior issue developing if the dog does not get the treat that they expect. By slowly taking away the treats, your dog will learn over time that following certain commands is a part of life that is expected and not a trick.

DO: Fade away the prompts

Once your dog has learned to follow a command, you can begin to fade away the prompt that went with the command. Start by saying the command and waiting a step before prompting with the gesture. Each time you practice, take longer between the command and the gesture. By fading away the hand or body gesture, your dog will learn to follow the command on their own by listening instead of watching.

DO: Watch for unintentional prompting

You will want to watch for unintentional prompting with your dog. Something as simple as having the dog face you when you tell it to lie down may be a prompt. Try facing away from the dog while saying the command to lie down. If the dog follows you, then you are on the right track.

DON'T: Cut treats too quickly

Taking treats away from the dog while training may cause the dog to quit performing the behavior. You will want to give treats randomly as this will still reward the dog for a behavior that deserves to be rewarded. For example, if at first you give your dog a treat for each and every success, after a week you could cut it down to a treat for every other success, then after another week you should give a treat for every three successes. Choose how you limit based on your individual dog and their learning.

DON'T: Use the prompt longer than necessary

Once your dog has learned to sit, you should be able to simply say sit and they will follow the command. If you are still pointing while saying sit, the dog may be only responding to the visual. Gradually fade the prompt away so that the dog responds to the word and not the gesture.

DON'T: Expect too much too fast

Don't expect your dog to learn too much too quickly. It takes time for a dog to learn a new trick or to relearn an old trick. Take it one step at a time, giving the dog plenty of time to learn the new behavior before trying to get it to do a new one. Most trainers prefer to focus on one trick at a time, allowing the dog time to master the trick or behavior before moving on to something new.

DON'T: Get frustrated with your dog

If your dog appears to be going backwards in the training, try not to get frustrated. Your dog is learning new things and may be relearning old ways of doing things. You must have patience with the dog and treat it with kindness. Getting frustrated or acting out in anger towards your dog can make your dog regress. By making the learning process a hostile one, your dog will no longer wish to be engaged in learning.

You can take your dog to advanced training classes or work with your dog one-on-one, teaching it the behaviors and tricks that you deem necessary. Teaching your dog is not only beneficial for your dog, but can strengthen your relationship and bond with your dog as well. Focus on fading out prompts and treats over time as well as keeping your cool during training, especially if your dog is being difficult.

How to Read Your Dog’s Body Language

Canine body language is a great way to help owners understand what dogs are feeling, how they are handling a situation, and what they are about to do. Handed down from the body language of their lupine ancestors, the body language of dogs is easy for humans to understand.

Knowing canine body language can help avoid fearful situations and aggressive behavior, prevent dog bites, as well as how to react when situations arise.

Relaxed dogs do not feel threatened by other dogs or their environment. They are friendly and approachable. Relaxed dog body language traits:

dog standing erect on four legs
tail hanging down straight (or in some breeds, curled upward) and wagging in a slow, sweeping motion
mouth open, tongue out, gentle panting (but not due to heat or stress)
ears erect and facing forward
eyes with small pupils, no whites showing
dog looking around, taking an interest in his surroundings

The playful stance, where a dog has his rump raised high, is the sign that it’s time to go out and play! Dogs also acquire this stance as a time out or as an apology or peace offering if they think they may have behaved too aggressively or threateningly. Playful body language traits:

rump raised, front of the body lowered, front knees bent, head forward, dog jumping around
tail raised high and waving
mouth open, tongue out
ears perked up and alert
eyes wide open, darting around in anticipation, pupils dilated

Stressed dogs give signals to show they are overheated, frustrated, fearful, or simply trying to deflect conflict. Stressed dog body language traits:

body bent forward, head down
tail down and limp
tongue extended forward or licking the nose, indicating being wary but not aggressive, panting extensively if overheated
ears folded back
eyes avoiding looking directly at anything, pupils dilated

Fearful dogs have unmistakable humped-over body language and a fearful gaze. Remove the dog from the fearful environment or let him calm down on his own. Fearful body language traits:
body crouched low, back arched, rump and head lowered, dog hiding, backing away, shivering or trembling
tail down and twitching or between the legs
mouth closed, lips possibly curled
ears down or laid back
eyes fixed on the thing scaring him, whites of the eyes showing

Aggressive dogs give signals that they are about to attack and defend themselves. It’s best to leave these dogs alone. Aggressive dog body language traits:

dog directly facing his opponent, body in a forward lurching position, head tilted forward, hackles raised
tail straight down and tensed or tucked under his legs
mouth snarling, lips curled, teeth exposed
ears back
eyes narrowed, staring at opponent, pupils dilated

Dominant dogs know they are the king of the pack and make sure everyone else knows, too. Dominant dog body language traits:
dog standing erect and tall, hackles raised
tail up straight and bristled
mouth closed or lips curled and teeth visible in the prelude to a snarl
ears erect and facing forward
eyes staring straight ahead or on target
dog pretending to mount (or hump) lower-ranking dogs

Submissive dogs are not necessarily wimps, just dogs who agree to recognize who the leader is and avoid confrontation. Submissive dog body language traits:
dog crouching, knees bent, front paw raised, rump lowered, head down
tail between the legs
mouth open slightly, tongue dipping out slightly—they may lick the face of the dominant dog
ears folded back
eyes looking away, brief and indirect eye contact with dominant dog or person

SOURCES

Image: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBWJZbuqBo7YSGEu0m__kSuk0-hcbvTMPO7-E6szMVx3rTX_owql2kpkTadtV5mpfQu-nuq-uBC8uZpfL0sdhhxlU2UeWpAmXdOXh4l2xEDPGKXdxZRwXSuoqC4Vy8b0vYAPbRZA8qyc/s1600/Dog_Body_Language.png

How to Read Your Dog’s Body Language, Modern Dog Magazine – http://moderndogmagazine.com/articles/how-read-your-dogs-body-language/415

How to Interpret Your Dog’s Body Language…, Paws Across America – http://www.pawsacrossamerica.com/interpret.html

Canine Body Language, ASPCA – http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/canine-body-language

Reading Your Dog’s Body Language, About (dot) com – http://dogs.about.com/od/dogtraining/tp/dogbodylanguage.htm

Dog Body Language, WebMD – http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/dog-body-language

10 Benefits of Having a Pet

• Decreased Stress

Pet owners suffer less from depression than those without pets. As stated by a study from State University of New York, when conducting a stressful task people experienced less stress when their pets were with them than when a spouse, friend, or a family member was with them.

• More Exercise

Pets have positive effects on your health, especially dogs. You need to walk and play with your dog several times each day so that most dog owners get the recommended minimum 30 minutes of exercise a day keeping them in shape and lowering the risk of cardiovascular disease.

• A More Active Social Life

Polls show that people tend to trust people with pets more than people without pets. People are more likely to indulge in a conversation with those who own a pet. Having a pet is just like having a friend. 

• Eases Pain

Pets can be the best medicine, especially when you are going through chronic pain. It also reduces anxiety. 

• Lowers Blood Pressure

People who own pets have lower blood pressure than those who don’t. 

• Lowers Cholesterol

Another health benefit of owning a pet is lower cholesterol. It has been observed that people who own pets have significantly lower cholesterol and triglycerides than those who don’t.

• Improves Mood

Having a pet helps to improve your mood. When you return to your they are always happy to see you. Pets therapy is becoming much more widespread. Those who own pets are less likely to commit suicide than those who don’t. 

• Keep Your Chin Up

Having a pet is a great way to beat the blues. Pets offer unconditional love and also give their owners a sense of purpose, which can be crucial for those feeling down. Pets combat feelings of loneliness by providing companionship, which can boost your overall mood and bring you feelings of joy and happiness. 

• Cancer Detection

Your pet can be a saviour. Our canine friends often have the ability to smell cancer in the human body. It has been witnessed that owners whose dogs kept sniffing or licking a mole or lump on their body so they get it checked out, discovering it was cancer. Dogs are so good at this that some of them are trained to detect cancer.

• Involves less Doctors

Pet owners over 65 make 30 % less visits to their doctors than those without. Owning a pet helps you stay healthier and happier.

10 Ways to Prolong Your Pet’s Life

1. Visit the veterinarian more often
According to ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) cats above 10 years of age and dogs above 7 years should be taken to vet at least twice a year. It is also important to record your pet’s weight from time to time. Any unusual change may be a reason to worry.

2. Be alert to changes
If your pets lose their eyesight and/or hearing immediately bring this to your vet’s notice. These losses could bring changes in the way your pets behave and your vet should be aware of these changes to ensure that necessary steps are taken to cure or care for your pet.

3. Plenty of exercise
Just like humans, exercise is an important component of healthy lifestyle for animals. Pets like to take long naps, so it is essential for pet’s owner to ensure that between these naps they are spending active play time outside the house. Taking your pet out on a walk is as essential as providing the right diet. 

4. Keep up with vaccinations
It is very important for pet owners to ensure that their pets are up to date with vaccinations. Some vaccinations work for the lifetime of the pet, some require updating. It’s a good idea to ask your vet to schedule appointments in advance to mitigate the risk of forgetting when its time to bring your pet in for a booster.

5. Pay attention to your pet’s appearance
With health issues pets generally stop grooming and can get greasy fur. Short haired pets should be brushed once a week while pets with long hair require daily brushing. Your pet’s skin should also be monitored for lumps or lesions.

6. Monitor your pet’s diet
Providing the right diet to your pet is essential to ensuring a longer life. It’s not important to buy mature or adult food formulas, and it is very important to let your vet know if your pet’s appetite decreases.

7. Proper in-house care
Your pet needs a warm, quiet place to rest, away from all drafts and off the floor. A training crate is ideal. You may wish to buy a pet bed, or make one out of a wooden box. Place a clean blanket inside the bed and wash the bed often.

8. Licensing and identification
Pet owners must follow their community’s licensing regulations. It’s a good idea to attach the license to your dog’s collar. This license, along with an ID tag, can help your pet’s safe return should they become lost.

9. Good hygiene
If your pets spend most of their time outside the house it is extremely important that they are not playing in dirty or dangerous areas and are away from any kind of bacteria- spreading environment. It is also advisable to use an antibacterial lotion.

10. Reduce stress and anxiety
Pets, just like humans, suffer from stress and anxiety. Animals are creatures of routine. It is helpful to establish a daily routine for them and stick to it as much as possible. Having consistency in their schedule helps them stay happy and secure, and perhaps live a longer life.

Sources:
Source
Source

10 Interesting Facts About Cats

• Most tamed animal

The domestic cat is the most tamed four-legged animal and the favorite pet in America. According to a survey conducted by American pet product manufacturers association (APPMA), there are approximately 73 million cats in houses through out the country while there are 68 million dogs. 

• Cats sleep 2/3 of their life

On average a cat sleeps for about 16 hours a day. If your cat is 9 years old, she has spent 6 years of her life sleeping. Felines often find a particular place they enjoy and make it their favorite napping spot.

• Cats have human-like emotions

Cats have emotions and feel happiness, sadness, anger, excitement, and playfulness. Though the range and depth of these emotions is debatable, studies have confirmed that kitties have the tendency to feeling human emotions. The gray matter of a cat’s brain shares similarities to the human brain.

• Cat bites are dangerous

Statistics show that every year around 40,000 people are bitten by a cat across the United States. According to Briarcliff Animal Hospital, cat bites are very dangerous and can lead to serious bacterial infection. It can be treated with penicillin, however if left unchecked, it can spread throughout your lymph system and in rare cases may lead to death.

• Cats have inbuilt GPS

Cats have the ability to find their way home if lost. Experts associate this capability with sunlight angles, magnetic field of earth, and PSI travelling. There are various documented cases where cats have completed long journeys from very distant places to reach home.

• Cats can use the toilet

Experts say there is no need to buy kitty litter for your cat. Cats can be trained to use human toilets and flush. Once trained, your cat will always find your toilet a comfortable place to answer calls of nature.

• Cats can jump high

As a matter of fact, cats can jump up to 5 times their own height in just one leap. What does this mean for a cat owner? Make sure you keep all the fragile items out of reach and if possible use china cabinets to keep your fragile collection from becoming your cat’s toy.

• Size doesn’t matter

Despite their tiny size a cat has almost 290 bones and 517 muscles while humans, who are much bigger in size, have only 206 bones. Cats rarely damage their bones and are generally unaffected by a fall.

• Cat’s tongue

Did you know that your cat’s tongue is divided into sections and each one is responsible for differentiating tastes? Cats cannot taste sweet things so don’t add sugar to your cat’s milk, it will be of no use. Chocolates are harmful to cats also.

• Cat’s eye color

Have you ever noticed the color of your cat’s eyes? As a cat owner you may notice that as your cat ages his eye color changes.

Break Your Dog’s Bad Habits

1. Dogs do what works

Dogs behave in a particular way when certain behavior gets them what they want. Try to understand what your dog gets out of bad behavior or habit and then take that thing away – the bad habit will stop or change. For example, dogs often jump on people when they come home looking for attention. Stop giving them attention when they do so and they will stop doing it.

2. Dogs don’t generalize

Dogs cannot make leaps of understanding like humans. We look at a paper tree or a real tree and we see it as a tree but dogs don’t think that way. For example, you may teach your dog to sit but always in the kitchen. If you ask your dog to sit when outside he might not understand what you mean.

3. Determine why your dog is repeating bad habits

Try to figure out what the dog is getting out of his bad habit that keeps him doing it. Is it your attention or is it turning out to be a fun game for him? Act accordingly and take away the fun factor.

4. Look at your behavior

If you pay a lot of attention to your dog’s bad habits, they might enjoy it which would gives them reasons to continue. Even angry attention is attention. If you are noticing too much or giving attention when dog is busy with his bad habits, you may be responsible for motivating him to continue with his bad habits.

5. If you have adopted your dog as an older dog with habits that seem to be set in stone
As mentioned earlier, dogs are very context specific and this sometimes works in our favor. If the dog has a new home and if the limits and expectations are set immediately when the dog arrives at home, he will learn quickly. It helps to train dogs per one’s needs, which results in developing good habits.

6. Rewarding your dog for giving up bad habits

Select three different levels of treats – bronze, silver, and gold for following your instructions.

7. Be Consistent and patient

You have to be consistent and patient with your dogs if you want them to give up bad habits. It might take some time.

8. Remove physical stimulants

If there are certain objects in your home or garden that drive your dog towards the bad habit, remove the object that acts as a stimulant.

10 Surprising ‘People’ Foods your Dog Can Eat

Carob
Carob is a chocolate substitute, it contains vitamins and minerals and, most importantly, does not contain caffeine or theobromine. It also contains fiber and pectin which are good for your dog’s health.

• Peanut butter
Whether dogs can eat peanut butter or not is a question that remains on many dog owner’s minds. The truth is, dogs can eat peanut butter without worry. The quantity should be monitored and controlled because it can lead to an overweight dog if given to excess.

• Pears
Dogs can eat pears safely, but keep in mind the seeds of pears can be toxic to canines, if you want to share with your dog cut it up and feed the pieces to your dog and toss the core.

• Popcorn
Popcorn is little tricky. It’s ok to give your dog a bowl of popcorn as long as its plain. Once you load it with butter and salt it’s a lot less healthy for canines. 

• Fruit salad
There are many fruits that are sweet, delicious, and healthy for dogs, like strawberries, blueberries, apples, and cantaloupe. Mix all these fruits together in a pleasing fruit salad and present it to your dog. Never include grapes though.

• Tuna
Tuna is a classic cat snack, however many dogs like it too. Its a healthy option with protein, vitamins, and omega-3 fatty acids.

• Pasta
Yes, dogs can eat pasta. Any variety of pasta is healthy for dogs. It’s essential to hold the commercial pasta sauce as these are usually acidic and too much sugar and salt. Pasta is nothing more than flour, water, and sometimes eggs, all of which are safe for dogs.

• Peppermint
Peppermint is safe and can be used as an ingredient if you bake your own homemade dog biscuits. It freshens up you dog’s breath and relaxes the tummy.

• Pretzels
Pretzels are as good as popcorn so feel free to consider it for your dog’s snack. They are healthy for dogs as it is essentially just bread. Just like popcorn unsalted pretzels are much better.

• Zucchini
Zucchini’s potassium, folate and vitamin content make it healthy for you and your dog. No part of this vegetable is toxic for canines. Go ahead and feed without fear.

10 Foods Your Dog Should Never Eat

• Milk and other dairy products
The digestive system of dogs does not contain lactase (the enzyme that helps break down lactose) which means introducing cow’s milk or milk based products to your dog’s diet might lead to digestive issues.

• Raw meat and bones
Raw meat transmits bacteria like E. Coli that can be harmful to pets. Avoid sharing any uncooked beef, poultry, or fish and keep any items you are defrosting for dinner out of reach.

• Alcohol
You might think it funny to see how your dog reacts after consuming alcohol, however it is not funny for him. It can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, depression of the central nervous system, breathing issues, and tremors.

• Caffeine
Caffeine contains methylxanthines which are very harmful to animals. This chemical is found in coffee, tea, energy drinks, etc. Ingestion of this chemical can lead to hyperactivity, panting, increased thirst, and excess urination.

• Diet sweeteners
Artificial sweeteners cause insulin release in animals which leads to hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar levels. Signs of ingestion may include lethargy, lack of coordination, and vomiting. 

• Grapes and raisins
Even though grapes and raisins are of nutritional value to human beings, they should be kept out of reach of your pets. The impact of ingestion of grapes by pets can range from lethargy, depression, kidney failure, and even loss of life.

• Avocados
They contain a substance called persin, which if given in large amounts can be fatal to dogs. If you grow avocados, keep them out of reach of your pet.

• Chocolate
Luckily most of us know that chocolate is not good for dogs. It contains a chemical called theobromine that causes distress, all types of chocolate are harmful, especially dark chocolate.

• Onions and garlic
Prolonged consumption of onion and garlic reduces the red blood cell counts in dogs which can lead to anemia. Its best to avoid onion and garlic in foods for your dog. 

• Yeast dough
If dough with yeast ends up in your dog’s stomach it will rise and expand causing your dog’s belly to swell and cause severe pain. The yeast ferments the dough which releases alcohol and might also cause alcohol poisoning.